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"Rave Marni," I mentioned to Mr. Risso, a 34-yr-previous sprite with corkscrew curls.

"That’s what it needs to be," he said.

Backstage after the show, ferragamo belt outlet belt sale (learn this here now) Mr. Risso provided his own idea of the gathering — "One plus one is one plus one" — which doesn’t sound in contrast to the type of early-morning musings you may hear among the barely fried within the chill room. "That’s it," he insisted. On that, he mentioned no extra, although you wouldn’t be shocked to hear the phrase punctuated with "P.L.U.R.!", the durable rave mantra. However when he stated he hoped the collection would "announce vulnerability," that made good club sense. "The vulnerability that you simply need to bring forward into your adult life," he added.

Its vulnerability was its strength, the brash openness of its raw, nervy weirdness. There have been some clothes here that have been foolish and a few that have been frankly ugly (which, in design, is often taken as a measure of seriousness; Mrs. Prada has lengthy known that, and Mr. Risso has evidently discovered his Prada classes well). However the present provided a jolt, Marni-ish in spirit, that zapped Milan’s opening days. It's only Mr. Risso’s first assortment, but it surely left many in the grumpy crowd smiling. That’s a great way to start.

Not every debut can be a rebel yell, and not every label has Marni’s esoteric heritage. By necessity, Guillaume Meilland’s first collection as the men’s design director of Salvatore Ferragamo was statelier, quieter, much less likely to spook the horses. Mr. Meilland, recently of Lanvin in Paris, tweaked the proportions of Ferragamo’s suits and coats to go well with his particular fancy, providing an elongated, slim silhouette in addition to a boxier, work-put on impressed one.

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